Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Set Pants to Maximum Magoo

I finally took my cr*tch depth measurements; and I'm flummoxed.

I tied elastic around my waist and measured the depth from front to back.  End measurement: 31.5".  It seems as though the front depth is 15.5" and the back 16".  My high hip seems to be 6" down from the waist and the full hip 12".

The pattern piece has a front depth of 10 5/8" and a back depth of 15 1/3".

The waistband is designed for the top of the band to sit right at the waist.  Using my cr*tch (ugh) measurements and comparing them to the paper pattern reveals that the back pattern is only 2/3 of an inch too short.  The front however is 5" shorter!  How can this be?  If I added five inches to the trouser front I'd be sporting a full-on Mr Magoo.  Surely not?

My eyes tell me that I need to add width to the front pattern piece (it's straining over my stomach).  There are all sorts of fit issues in the pant legs themselves (worse at the front), but I'll deal with them after I figure out the torso.

Round Two of many rounds of perhaps foolish Internet over-sharing:

I've let out all the inseams by about 1/3 of an inch from the original pattern.  I've taken in a horizontal tuck at the top of the back thigh and also done a tiny sway back adjustment.   I'm going to try adding an 1" or so to the crotch depth.  Bear in mind that today's pictures have been taken with a flash, which may change the way the wrinkles photograph.

Confused, but keeping going.


Ms. McCall said...

Do you have a pencil skirt that fits you well? The circumferences on the waist, high hip and full hip, and even the general shape of the garment should all be the same down to that point. after the full hip is when the crotch curve starts, so it won't help you with that, but at least you'll know the widths to that point are correct.

There's a great thread on PR called 'Year of the Pants' where lots of people have posted their pants muslin pictures, unfortunately not everyone found the solutions, but it's worth a look to see what they tried.

Elise Lin said...

It's already looking much better, it looks like you're on the right track!

oonaballoona said...

have you seen "analog me"'s post on using a flexible ruler to aid with crotch depth? never tried it myself, but when reading it, it felt like a V8 moment. at any rate the pant are looking better. WOMAN. what's up with all the tackling the hard shite?! are you making your man a suit next?

Caroline said...

Thanks for the advice and support! I am looking at Patternreview thread... and no, no suit for the man, but I was twisting the ends of my mustache with a devilish grin and thinking of making one for me!