Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Some detail / progress shots...

Coat making is turning out to be surprisingly satisfying.  Lots of little, important tasks, all very unlike each other.  If you get fed up with catch-stitching you can sew on some buttons.  If your bored of stitching then there's hours of pressing to catch up with.  I would LOVE any feedback, good or bad, especially on whether I'm using the correct techniques or not.

Lessons from Coat to date:
#1: Be easy on yourself.  I'm framing this coat as a "learning exercise." I've made tons of mistakes (my interfacing seems too short now, which I don't understand) but I'm not worrying too much about it.  This is my apprentice coat.

I've catch stitched the interfacing to the fashion fabric, used long running basting stitches to attach the facing to the body of the coat... not sure if this is right or not, but it seems to work. I was confused about whether you want your hair canvas to catch in the sleeve allowance or not. 

Can you see how much structure and shape is now built into these pieces?  It's really exciting.

Lesson #2:  Understand your fabric.  I didn't realize how thick my fashion fabric really is.  It has an almost cartoonish, Marc Jacob's quality.  Like the fabric has been slightly exaggerated.  It would have been smarter to either go with a simpler design (boring) OR play up the fabric with bigger buttonholes and buttons.  As it is this bound buttonholes are ridiculously thick.  But it's my apprentice coat.  I'll work with it.  Question:  Should I catch stick my seam allowances to the fashion fabric?  They are super thick and spongy.  Worried I should tack them down to help the coat keep it's shape over the years.

A finished sleeve, ready to go.  
 Lesson #3: This stuff isn't as hard as you think it will be.  I've never ventured into the Four Dots category in Burda.  But really if you have basic skills and are willing to refer to a few good books or videos you can do this.  I'm pretty proud of my vented sleeve, I've always loved them, but I've never had the nerve to try and make one before.  I did make a major fuck-up when I mitered the underlap as well (don't do this!).  I ended up recutting that piece.

What fun eh!


Amy said...

It looks really great so far! I want to see the other side of your bound button holes. I just had a hell of a time with my own coat's button holes yesterday and I want to see a success story! The sleeves look really beautiful, especially the row of buttons.

Caroline said...

Thanks Amy, I have the classic three good, one bad buttonhole situation, which I am just going with. I is a learning experience!