Fashion critics tie themselves in knots trying to justify the "new" Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane's vision. The most astute observation I've read is that he is essentially a fabulous stylist, whose taken a bunch of Top-Shop level looks and zsushed them up with some couture-level construction and great accessories.I actually like some of these looks; they are exactly the way a certain kind of rock and roll twenty-something should dress. This look especially--
is fantastic in its multiple layers of Sunset Boulevard. There's a more than a little Gloria Swanson in the turban and fur chubby. The slashed-to-the-navel disco dress and platforms reference the disco and punk era who made Sunset Boulevard their home in the seventies and eighties. So - clever layering. I like it. But that "like" is dependent on context; this look only works if the "girl" wearing it pulled the individual pieces from her grandmother's closet, thrift shops and her own sewing machine. It just doesn't make any sense with it takes a supposedly master designer and an army of the finest craftswomen in Paris to create it (and thousands of dollars to buy it).
Either way you certainly can't accuse him of originality.
Hooker chic isn't exactly a new idea, but I suppose he gets points for the brazenness of selling low-rent looks to high-rent clientele.
There were a few looks were the spirit of the original YSL pushed through the spangles and lurex:
Burda WOF did a great version of this jacket a few years ago. I may have to dig it out and re-consider it as a possible autumn sewing project.